Joy in Freedom of Expression

Beyond Netflix documentaries and newspaper headlines, in the context of fashion, “cult dressing” refers to a sartorial trope associated with specific subcultures or underground movements, where clothing choices are often used as a form of rebellion, identity or self-expression that is distinct from mainstream fashion. These subcultures could include groups like punk, goth, grunge, skaters or alternative styles that rejected conventional fashion norms. Cult dressing is typically defined by its exclusivity and uniqueness, often showcasing a specific set of aesthetics — such as do-it-yourself (DIY) fashion, obscure designer pieces or unconventional ensembles that signal membership in a specific cultural or social group. This style is usually adopted by those who want to differentiate themselves from the mainstream, often as a form of resistance or individuality.

As fashion becomes more inclusive and accessible, consumers are now able to express their authentic selves without the barriers that once kept certain styles exclusive. This democratisation of fashion means that people from all walks of life can find joy in dressing uniquely, without feeling restricted by mainstream fashion’s norms. The key idea is that these styles were once rare, niche and inaccessible to the broader public, but as fashion becomes more democratised through social media and collaborations between high fashion and mass-market brands, these once “cult” styles are increasingly absorbed into the mainstream, losing some of their distinctiveness and rebellious power.

The Rise of Social Media and the Death of Subcultural Significance

@cynicalneoprincess If last night was anything to go by I guess I can expect a looot of Chappell Roan comparisons over the next few years. But I need everyone to know I was doing the whole white face drag look before I ever knew who she was 😭 . . . . . . . . . #fitcheck #altfashion #altmakeup #gothfashion #clubkid ♬ original sound – ICONIC AUDIO

Fashion has always been a vehicle for self-expression, a tool to communicate identity and beliefs. For years, cult dressing — the hallmark of underground movements, niche subcultures and rebellious countercultures — was a bastion of inclusivity by means of exclusivity, a space where personal style was defined by what was different from the mainstream, a subculture of individuals who found their own sense of belonging amongst outsiders. In 2025, the landscape has shifted dramatically. Social media platforms — particularly TikTok — have democratised fashion, enabling subcultures once confined to the fringes to move into the mainstream, where their distinct styles are appropriated, commodified and mass-marketed causing the lines between what is “underground” and what is commercial to blur. What was once deemed “alternative” is now easily accessible to anyone with a phone and fashion has become a more collective, rapidly changing experience.

To many, the unique essence of subcultures that once defined individuality has been commodified and marketed to the masses. As these styles trickle down to mass-market brands and their consumers, they eventually become mainstream trends losing the very essence of what made them special. What was once a symbol of authenticity — from punk’s safety pins and flannel shirts to the streetwear born from skate culture — becomes diluted when packaged for profit. This results in the erosion of the authenticity these movements once held, leading to a sense of disillusionment in the joy of dressing and the expression of being “uniquely you”. The “proliferation” of these once-unique styles forces us — as fashion consumers — to confront the dichotomy: can adopting elements of a subculture still allow space for true individuality? If not, does this disillusionment affect the very idea of what it means to be “uniquely you”?

The Reconfiguration of Fashion Culture

@noctez.collective blowin’ bubbles… #y2k #outfitinspo #aesthetic #y2kfashion #fyp ♬ son original – ∞

The emergence of TikTok as a global cultural force has transformed the way many consume fashion. With TikTok’s algorithm-driven discovery tools, fashion trends can explode and evolve in a matter of hours. No longer do individuals need to belong to a specific subculture to gain visibility and the “cult” aspect of “cult dressing” is now diluted. In the age of TikTok, niche trends such as normcore, Y2K aesthetics or even specific clothing brands associated with subcultures are consumed and transformed by millions. While this level of visibility is empowering, it also raises the question of whether subcultures can retain their authenticity once they become commercially viable.

Normcore — which initially stood out for its embrace of simplicity as a form of non-conformity — quickly evolved into a mainstream trend. What started as a rejection of ostentation became mass-marketed and adopted by major retailers, making it accessible while maintaining its roots in minimalism. This shift highlights how subcultures — even those rooted in resistance to trends — can find themselves co-opted by the very industries they once challenged.

Similarly, Cottagecore — a style born from a romanticised, rural lifestyle that rejects modernity — draws inspiration from vintage, rural aesthetics with a countercultural edge. Originally a niche, it has seen a surge in popularity, driven in part by platforms like TikTok and Etsy, and compounded to mainstream culture by the popularity of the “Trad Wife” lifestyle trend. This movement — once defined by its “cultish” quality — has grown to see collaborations between indie brands and mass-market retailers like Urban Outfitters, blurring the line between underground and mainstream appeal.

The Y2K aesthetic — rooted in nostalgia for the late 1990s and early 2000s — exemplifies how trends are revived with new intensity in the digital age. Defined by metallics, exposed underwear waistbands over baggy, low-rise jeans and bold logos, this trend has exploded across social media and into the fashion mainstream (re-energised by Diesel, who one could argue was a pioneer of the trend in the early 2000s, showcasing the cyclical nature of fashion as styles make their way back into the spotlight, often evolving yet remaining rooted in their origins), revealing the power of collective memory and viral influence in reshaping past styles for today’s audience.

Finally, streetwear — which once emerged from skate, hip-hop, and punk subcultures — has ascended from its underground roots to become a dominant force in global fashion. Brands like Supreme and Off-White, which were initially part of countercultural movements, now stand at the forefront of high fashion, demonstrating how styles born in rebellion can redefine what is considered mainstream. This shift underscores the fluid nature of fashion, where the lines between subcultures and commercial success continue to blur. There is also an element of nostalgia, cultural relevance and timing at play. Cottagecore, for example, aligns with a collective desire for simplicity and a return to nature amidst digital overwhelm. Similarly, the resurgence of Y2K aesthetics taps into nostalgia — marketing it as a form of self-expression, but often reducing it to a way to commodify memories.

Redefining Individuality in a Collective Fashion Culture

Uniqlo Collab with Marni (left) and Jil Sander (right)

One of the most notable markers of this shift is the increased frequency of collaborations between avant-garde designers and mass-market brands. Labels like Uniqlo, H&M and even fast-fashion titan Zara have long partnered with high-end designers to make their collections available to the masses. Designers with cult followings such as Jil Sander, Comme des Garçons and Alexander Wang have contributed to lines that bring high fashion into affordable retail spaces. This merging of high and low fashion serves to further dissolve the boundaries that once defined the two. These partnerships make luxury design more accessible but also challenge the concept of fashion as an expression of exclusivity. When cutting-edge designs are available at one’s local Uniqlo, it becomes difficult to claim that these pieces — once markers of individuality — are truly unique anymore.

In a time where digital trends dictate what is “in” and fast fashion accelerates production and distribution, personal expression in fashion has become more about what the consumer can access than about being “uniquely you”. The digital age has also accelerated the speed at which these trends evolve, making it harder for any one style to remain “cult” for long. The individuals who originated the trend or belonged to these subcultures, lose the joy of being “uniquely you” and soon move on to the next trend. Subcultural fashion was once about constructing an identity through unique choices — clothes that represented a specific belief, group or idea. Today, that process has been shortened into digestible moments: a TikTok challenge, an influencer partnership or a viral meme. The notion of “individuality” is now framed within the context of a collective cultural moment. The challenge consumers face is how they intend to preserve individuality in a society where cultural trends feel increasingly orchestrated and how brands market this to consumers while still leveraging on market trends and maintaining profit margins.

Luxury Labels, Cult Followings & Designer Reshuffle

Another element of cult dressing in luxury fashion moves away from the underground rebellions and instead taps into an entirely different subculture — one built around an aspirational lifestyle defined by exclusivity. Designers like Jonathan Anderson and Demna tap into this niche by creating collections that attract a specific type of consumer — one who values individuality but also seeks to belong to an exclusive group. These collections embody a unique intersection of personal style and aspirational status.

Jonathan Anderson’s tenure at Loewe — marked by surreal and often bold designs — pushed the boundaries of what was traditionally accepted in high fashion and gave rise to a form of cult dressing that resonated with underground and avant-garde movements. Anderson’s use of unconventional shapes, vibrant colours and unexpected materials brought joy in freedom of expression, aligning with the themes of individuality and rebellion that cult fashion represents. Jonathan Anderson’s creative direction at Loewe exemplified another element of cult dressing — pushing the boundaries of what was considered “fashionable” and mainstream. His work brought seemingly “outlandish” aesthetics to the forefront, often blurring the lines between high fashion and art. Loewe’s bold collections — with their surreal designs, oversized silhouettes and unconventional treatment of materials — resonated with a niche, cult-like following that embraced the rebellious spirit of individuality and avant-garde fashion. As Anderson leaves Loewe in 2025, this departure signals the end of an era where cult aesthetics and non-conventional beauty were embraced by a luxury fashion house. His departure raises questions about the future of outlandish aesthetics in the mainstream, as high fashion increasingly aligns with digital virality and fast fashion trends.

Under Demna’s direction, Balenciaga cultivated a cult following, thanks to his subversive designs that often blurred the lines between high fashion and streetwear. His work resonated with a new generation seeking to challenge fashion’s traditional codes. The brand’s bold, boundary-pushing approach — coupled with its ability to offer both exclusivity (through high price points) and accessibility (through beloved staple pieces like the Triple S sneaker) — turned Balenciaga into a cultural phenomenon. Despite what some may consider a controversial tenure, Demna’s departure from Balenciaga marks the end of an era in which his unique vision transformed the brand into a symbol of both underground rebellion and aspirational luxury. His influence on Balenciaga’s evolution — from its sensationalist product releases to its cult-like appeal — was as divisive as it was marketing magic.

It is also interesting to note that Gucci — during the Alessandro Michele years — similarly honed in on its own legacy of cult status, with his gender-bending, eclectic, maximalist designs that redefined the Maison’s heritage, breaking down traditional notions of menswear resulting in collections that resonated deeply with countercultural movements. As Demna transitions to Gucci, it will be intriguing to see how he navigates and meets the demands of Gucci consumers.

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