Major Moves: Loewe Appoints Former Proenza Schouler Designers As Creative Directors; Mugler Names A New Designer
With the global economy slowing down, the fashion industry has never been more volatile — and designers have never been more vulnerable. In the past year, the fashion news cycle has seen plenty of creative directors come and go between coveted top spots at the helm of luxury brands. Veteran figures like Hedi Slimane and John Galliano left their roles at Celine and Maison Margiela respectively, with nothing else lined up (as far as we know). There were some exciting changes, too: last December, Matthieu Blazy left Bottega Veneta to join the house of Chanel, ending months of rumours and speculations about who would be Virginie Viard’s successor. Meanwhile, his former role at Bottega Veneta was taken up by Louise Trotter, the former creative director of Carven.
If 2024 was full of twists and turns in fashion’s so-called “game” of musical chairs, 2025 is already looking to outdo it. Ahead, tune into all the major shifts within the fashion industry and catch up on all the fashion news to know, from creative director appointments to departures.
Mugler Names A New Creative Director As Casey Cadwallader Exits
Hot on the heels of Loewe’s major announcement, Mugler has named its new creative director: Miguel Castro Freitas.
Freitas succeeds Casey Cadwallader, who has helmed Mugler since 2018. During his seven-year tenure, Cadwallader reinvigorated the French fashion brand founded by Thierry Mugler with a fresh energy, offering bodycon styles and cut-out catsuits that were embraced by popstars like Beyoncé, Dua Lipa and more.
Freitas is a relatively behind-the-scenes figure in the fashion industry. Prior to his appointment at Mugler, the Portugal-born designer and Central Saint Martins graduate worked at Lanvin, Dior (first during John Galliano’s tenure, and again under Raf Simons), Dries Van Noten and, most recently, Sportmax, Max Mara’s sister brand.
In a statement, Danièle Lahana-Aidenbaum, the global brand president of Mugler Fashion and Fragrances, said: “Miguel lives and breathes the Mugler spirit. His deep understanding of Mugler’s DNA and his vast creativity and talent made him a natural choice.”
Freitas will join Mugler officially on 1 April. He will present his first Mugler collection during the Spring/Summer 2026 season at Paris Fashion Week this September.
Loewe Appoints Former Proenza Schouler Designers As Creative Directors
On 24 March, Loewe named not one but two new creative directors: Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, formerly of Proenza Schouler.McCollough and Hernandez will take the helm of the Spanish luxury fashion brand from 7 April. The designer duo will oversee all of Loewe’s collections, including womenswear, menswear, leather goods and accessories.
In a joint statement, the designers shared, “We are incredibly honoured to join Loewe, a house whose values and mission align closely with our own. We look forward to working alongside its extraordinary teams and artisans, whose talent—under the exceptional creative direction of Jonathan Anderson—has shaped Loewe into the cultural force it is today.”
The news comes just a week after Jonathan Anderson announced his departure from Loewe, ending his 11-year tenure. McCollough and Hernandez exited Proenza Schouler in January 2025 after an even longer tenure. The pair, who met at Parsons School of Design, founded Proenza Schouler in 2002 and immediately established it as one of New York’s most beloved fashion brands. They went on to win five CFDA awards at their womenswear label.
Sidney Toledano, the chief executive of the LVMH Fashion Group, said in a statement, “I have long admired Jack and Lazaro’s work at Proenza Schouler, their eclectic creativity and dedication to craft make them a natural choice to build the next chapter for Loewe.”
Jonathan Anderson Exits Loewe After 11 Years
Jonathan Anderson has officially announced his exit from Loewe.
The fashion designer shared the news of his departure on Instagram, a few days after Loewe’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection was presented at Paris Fashion Week.
“Eleven years ago, I was given the most incredible opportunity: to write a chapter in a story that is now 179 years old,” wrote Anderson. “They say all good things must come to an end, but I disagree. While my own chapter draws to a close, Loewe’s story will continue for many years to come and I will look on with pride.”
Anderson joined Loewe as creative director in 2013, and he spent the next 11 years shaping the Spanish luxury house with his eccentric vision. At Loewe’s fashion shows for men and women, he often unveiled surreal items that would go viral, like balloon shoes and hoop dresses. He also oversaw the brand’s buzzy collaborations with On, Studio Ghibli and Paula’s Ibiza.
Anderson also launched the Loewe Craft Prize in 2016. The designer wrote, “We created a platform that genuinely supports and gives visibility to vanishing crafts, young makers, old masters, and new ideas. I would like to thank the (Loewe) Foundation team, the members of the Jury and Expert panel for their time and dedication.”
Reflecting on his legacy at Loewe, Anderson wrote, “Since day one, I envisioned creating a cultural brand. This idea relied heavily on the trust and generosity of the many artists, craftspeople, estates, foundations, museums and galleries who contributed their work. I am sincerely grateful to you all.”
Anderson’s successor at Loewe has not been named. Many fashion insiders speculate that Anderson is headed to Dior (Kim Jones stepped down from his role as creative director of Dior Men in January 2025). The designer will continue to helm his eponymous label, JW Anderson.
Demna Is The New Artistic Director of Gucci
After 10 years at Balenciaga, Demna has been appointed to the role of artistic director at Gucci, one of the biggest fashion houses in the industry. He is expected to join the house early July, after presenting his final couture collection for Balenciaga.
“I am truly excited to join the Gucci family. It is an honour to contribute to a House that I deeply respect and have long admired. I look forward to writing together with Stefano and the whole team a new chapter of Gucci’s amazing story,” the designer said in a statement.
Donatella Versace Steps Down As Creative Director; Dario Vitale Succeeds Her As Chief Creative Officer
Over in Milan, Donatella Versace has stepped down as creative director of Versace after 30 years in the role. She will take on the newly created role of chief brand ambassador, while Dario Vitale, who cut his teeth at brands like Miu Miu and Bottega Veneta, has been installed as the brand’s new chief creative officer.
“I am truly honoured to join Versace as the chief creative officer and to be a part of this special and powerful fashion luxury House created by Gianni and Donatella,” Vitale said in a statement. “The House of Versace has a unique heritage that has spanned decades and has shaped the history of fashion. I want to express my sincere thank you to Donatella for her trust in me, and for her tireless dedication to the extraordinary brand that Versace is today. It is a privilege to contribute to the future growth of Versace and its global impact through my vision, expertise and dedication.”
Following the announcement, Donatella shared a heartfelt Instagram post following the news with the caption, “I hope I’ve made you proud so far”, undoubtedly a dedication to her late brother Gianni Versace, who founded the brand in 1978.
Sabato De Sarno Leaves Gucci
Sabato De Sarno is leaving Gucci after two years. The news was announced via a statement from the Italian luxury brand on 6 February.
In that statement, Gucci CEO Stefano Cantino says, “I would like to express my deep gratitude to Sabato for his passion and dedication to Gucci. I sincerely appreciate how he honoured Gucci’s craftsmanship and heritage with such commitment.”
De Sarno joined Gucci as its creative director in 2023, succeeding Alessandro Michele. The Italian fashion designer brought a minimalist vision to Gucci’s womenswear and menswear collections, with a focus on wardrobe staples, coats and tailoring. His Gucci campaigns were similarly straightforward, and he made an effort to spotlight emerging models in them. De Sarno also tapped celebrities like Dakota Johnson, Kendall Jenner, Paul Mescal and Debbie Harry to front Gucci’s campaigns.
The 41-year-old designer started his fashion career as an assistant pattern-maker at Prada, and during his early years at Valentino, where he was design director, he focused on designing men’s coats. De Sarno’s tenure at Gucci, which he joined after leaving Valentino, lasted two years.
De Sarno’s successor is yet to be announced. Gucci will present a collection from its in-house design team during its Fall/Winter 2025 fashion show on 25 February, during Milan Fashion Week.
Kim Jones Exits Dior
Kim Jones is leaving Dior. The British designer is making his exit mere days after presenting his Dior Men’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection in Paris, which received a standing ovation. In January 2025, Jones was also awarded the Knight of the Legion of Honor, France’s highest civilian honour.
Jones spent seven years at the helm of Dior, taking over Kris Van Assche in 2018. He drew upon the maison’s rich archives of womenswear and haute couture to create desirable menswear. He also created buzz with a string of collaborations with the likes of Nike, Kaws, Shawn Stussy, Hajime Sorayama, Travis Scott and Lewis Hamilton.
On top of being recognised at the CFDA and the British Fashion Awards, Jones was also awarded an OBE by Queen Elizabeth II in 2020. The news of Jones’s departure from Dior comes three months after he stepped down at Fendi, where he served as artistic director of haute couture and women’s ready-to-wear.
In a statement, Jones said, “It was a true honour to have been able to create my collections within the house of Dior, a symbol of absolute excellence. I express my deep gratitude to my studio and the ateliers who have accompanied me on this wonderful journey. They have brought my creations to life. I would also like to take this opportunity to thank the artists and friends I have met through my collaborations. Lastly, I feel sincere gratitude towards Bernard and Delphine Arnault, who have given me their full support.”
Dior has yet to announce Jones’s successor.
Glenn Martens Joins Maison Margiela
Glenn Martens has been named as the new creative director of Maison Margiela.
The Belgian designer succeeds John Galliano, who left the Paris-based fashion label in December 2024 after a decade.
“I have worked with Glenn for years, I have witnessed his talent, and I know what he is capable of,” said Renzo Rosso, chairman of OTB Group, which owns Maison Margiela. The label was founded in 1988 by Belgian designer Martin Margiela, who retired from the fashion industry in 2009.
“After Martin, who gave life to the maison and its unique Artisanal line, and John who made it the most cutting-edge couture house in the world, I am proud to have a third couturier at its helm,” added Rosso. “Glenn, who studied at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts like Martin, has already shown his prowess and his vision in couture.”
Martens is currently the creative director of Diesel — also owned by OTB Group — and was formerly at the helm of Y/Project. The 41-year-old designer left his role as creative director of Y/Project in September 2024, and the French fashion was shuttered in January 2025.
The date of Martens’s first fashion show for Maison Margiela is yet to be announced.
The announcement from Maison Margiela and its parent company OTB Group did not specify when Martens would show his first collection for the brand.
This article was first seen on Grazia Singapore.
For more on the latest in luxury fashion and style reads, click here.
The most impressive feature, besides the views from many of the rooms of the bustling neighborhood, are the bathrooms. Like other Ned properties, vanities stock Cowshed products, but not just small bottles. Instead, there are a half dozen full-size bottles of every scent and desired effect from rejuvenating to relaxing. By the sinks, some of which are open to the room (like in Studios), are even more toiletries like combs, razors and even condoms. Larger rooms add soaking tubs in the room.
The suites are real winners here. The salon and larger rotunda suites have separate living areas, and the Broadway sweep is enormous with lovely views of its namesake neighborhood. The largest is the Johnston Terrace Suite, which comes with a proper dining room, living room and stunning outdoor terrace.
Similar to its hotels in London, Washington DC and Doha, this hotel offers membership rates that allow others to enjoy exclusive access to special events, deals at its food, beverage and spa outlets, and priority service. Few other hotels tread this line, and the benefit of being a guest here is that you feel just like one of the members (as long as your key unlocks one of the guest rooms here).
Members can access the Library for a space to work away from home or the office and both the Magic Room and the Club room for live music or special events. They can also attend special panels and educational talks. And when they have guests in town, they enjoy special member rates for overnight stays.
If you’re a Ned member in Doha, you have access to any of the other locations, for example. It is this type of exclusivity, as well as opportunity to hob knob with other elite of the same ilk, that pays off for joining. If you chat with members, story after story reveals how membership has paid off in spades for them. They have closed big deals, networked with investors and even sparked romantic relationships among the people that they meet here.
Cecconi’s, the main restaurant here, is a local institution. While it serves a decadent breakfast, it is the lunch and dinner menus that draw the most interest. Expect dishes like an authentic taglierini cacio e pepe, cavatelli with lamb ragu and veal Milanese.
Once the sun sets, don’t expect to parade around as you wish. A strict dress code calls for at least business casual attire if you want to enter some of the swanky bar spaces. The most prized vantage point is up on the rooftop where the city’s glittering skyline unfurls as you sip sexy cocktails (or mocktails) or indulge in the bar bites menu.
Little Ned serves light bites and craft cocktails to complement the famous Cecconi’s menu. Top Chef winner and culinary host Kristen Kish is adding her talents to the menu here, which means there are plenty of reason to dine onsite and hob knob with members rather than fight for a table elsewhere.
In the heart of Broadway’s bustling theater district and not far from most major tourist and business addresses, this hotel is in the center of it all. It sits in the landmark Johnston Building, which dates back to 1908. Seen from across the street, the Beaux Arts architecture is rather chic and striking, alluding to the interesting encounters that a visit might entail.
From the vintage elevator entrances to the marble floor of the lobby, this is no average hotel. Guests sink into leather sofas while they await friends to join them in the bar, perhaps a special treat for locals who have always wondered more about The Ned NoMad.
