Luxury watches are more than just timepieces—they’re symbols of craftsmanship, status, and timeless elegance. Whether you’re buying your first luxury watch or adding to a growing collection, the process can feel overwhelming. With so many high-end brands, styles, and price points, how do you choose the right one? This Pursuitist guide will walk you through everything you need to know to make a smart decision, from understanding the top brands to knowing what to look for in a luxury watch.
Why Invest in a Luxury Watch?
Luxury watches are not just accessories; they’re investments. Brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet are known for holding—and often increasing—their value over time. For example, a Rolex Submariner or a Patek Philippe Nautilus can appreciate significantly, especially if they’re rare or discontinued models. Beyond financial value, luxury watches are heirlooms, often passed down through generations as a testament to fine craftsmanship.
The Best Luxury Watches
1. Rolex
History and Heritage:Founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf in London, Rolex is arguably the most iconic watch brand in the world. The company moved to Geneva, Switzerland, in 1919 and has since become synonymous with precision, durability, and prestige. Rolex was the first brand to create a waterproof wristwatch (the Oyster, 1926) and the first to develop a self-winding mechanism (the Perpetual rotor, 1931).
Famous Wearers:Rolex watches have graced the wrists of countless celebrities, athletes, and leaders. Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona is one of the most famous watches in history, selling for a record-breaking $17.8 million at auction in 2017. Other notable wearers include James Bond (Sean Connery wore a Rolex Submariner in early Bond films), Roger Federer, and Martin Luther King Jr.
Auction Highlights:
Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona: $17.8 million (Phillips, 2017)
Rolex “Bao Dai” Ref. 6062: $5.06 million (Phillips, 2017)
Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538 (worn by James Bond): $1.068 million (Christie’s, 2021)
Why Buy:Rolex watches are highly reliable, retain value, and are widely accepted as status symbols. Popular models include the Submariner, Daytona, and Datejust.
2. Patek Philippe
History and Heritage:Founded in 1839 in Geneva, Patek Philippe is one of the oldest and most prestigious watch manufacturers in the world. Known for its intricate complications and timeless designs, Patek Philippe has a reputation for creating some of the most complicated mechanical watches ever made. The brand’s slogan, “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation,” speaks to its legacy as a family heirloom.
Famous Wearers:Patek Philippe has been worn by royalty, celebrities, and business magnates. Queen Victoria owned a Patek Philippe pendant watch in the 19th century, while modern-day enthusiasts include Ellen DeGeneres, Brad Pitt, and John Mayer.
Auction Highlights:
Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300A: $31.19 million (Only Watch Auction, 2019)
Patek Philippe Henry Graves Supercomplication: $24 million (Sotheby’s, 2014)
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A: $375,000 (Phillips, 2021)
Why Buy:Patek Philippe watches are often considered the pinnacle of watchmaking, with intricate movements and limited production. Iconic models include the Nautilus, Aquanaut, and Calatrava.
3. Audemars Piguet
History and Heritage:Founded in 1875 by Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet in the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland, Audemars Piguet is known for its innovative designs and complex movements. The brand gained global recognition with the launch of the Royal Oak in 1972, designed by Gerald Genta. The Royal Oak was the first luxury sports watch made of stainless steel, revolutionizing the industry.
Famous Wearers:Audemars Piguet has a strong following among athletes and musicians. LeBron James, Jay-Z, and Arnold Schwarzenegger are all known to wear the brand. The Royal Oak, in particular, has become a symbol of success and style.
Auction Highlights:
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref. 15202ST: $122,500 (Phillips, 2021)
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Ref. 25831ST: $81,250 (Christie’s, 2020)
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon: $200,000+ (private sales)
Why Buy:Audemars Piguet watches are known for their avant-garde style and high resale value. The Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore are particularly popular among collectors.
4. Omega
History and Heritage:Founded in 1848 by Louis Brandt in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, Omega has a rich history of innovation and precision. The brand is best known for its association with NASA and the moon landing—the Omega Speedmaster was the first watch worn on the moon in 1969. Omega is also the official timekeeper of the Olympic Games, a role it has held since 1932.
Famous Wearers:Omega has been worn by numerous celebrities and public figures, including James Bond (since 1995’s GoldenEye), Prince William, and George Clooney.
Auction Highlights:
Omega Speedmaster Ref. 2915-1: $3.4 million (Phillips, 2021)
Omega Speedmaster “Alaska Project” Prototype: $384,000 (Christie’s, 2018)
Omega Seamaster 300 Ref. 165.024: $75,000 (Phillips, 2020)
Why Buy:Omega offers a blend of innovation, history, and affordability compared to other luxury brands. Iconic models include the Speedmaster, Seamaster, and Constellation.
5. Jaeger-LeCoultre
History and Heritage:Founded in 1833 by Antoine LeCoultre in the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland, Jaeger-LeCoultre is known for its technical prowess and elegant designs. The brand has produced over 1,200 different calibers and holds hundreds of patents. The Reverso, introduced in 1931, is one of the most iconic watches in history, originally designed for polo players to protect the watch face.
Famous Wearers:Jaeger-LeCoultre has been worn by celebrities like Benedict Cumberbatch, Diane Kruger, and Christian Bale. The Reverso, in particular, has a timeless appeal.
Auction Highlights:
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon: $750,000 (private sales)
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Grande Complication: $250,000 (Sotheby’s, 2018)
Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Deep Sea: $50,000 (Phillips, 2020)
Why Buy:Jaeger-LeCoultre watches are celebrated for their technical complexity and classic designs. The Reverso and Master Control lines are particularly popular.
Key Factors to Consider When Buying a Luxury Watch
Budget
Luxury watches can range from $5,000 to 1 million. Set a realistic budget and stick to it. Remember to factor in maintenance costs, which can include servicing every 3-5 years.
Purpose
Everyday Wear: Look for durable models like the Rolex Oyster Perpetual or Omega Seamaster.
Formal Occasions: Consider dress watches like the Patek Philippe Calatrava or Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso.
Investment Pieces: Focus on limited-edition or iconic models like the Rolex Daytona or Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.
Movement
Mechanical: These watches are powered by a mainspring and require manual winding or automatic movement. They’re prized for their craftsmanship.
Quartz: Powered by a battery, quartz watches are more accurate and require less maintenance but are generally less valued by collectors.
Materials
Luxury watches are typically made from stainless steel, gold, platinum, or titanium. Some models feature exotic materials like ceramic or carbon fiber. Choose a material that suits your lifestyle and aesthetic preferences.
Resale Value
If you’re buying a watch as an investment, research its resale potential. Rolex and Patek Philippe models, for example, often appreciate in value, especially if they’re discontinued or rare.
Where to Buy a Luxury Watch
Authorized Dealers
Purchasing from an authorized dealer ensures authenticity and often comes with a manufacturer’s warranty. However, prices are usually at retail value.
Pre-Owned Market
Websites like Chrono24, WatchBox, and Bob’s Watches offer certified pre-owned luxury watches. This can be a great way to find discontinued or rare models.
Auction Houses
Christie’s, Sotheby’s, and Phillips regularly host watch auctions featuring rare and vintage timepieces. Be prepared for competitive bidding.
Tips for First-Time Buyers
Do Your Research: Understand the brand, model, and market value before making a purchase.
Try It On: A watch may look great online but feel different on your wrist. Visit a boutique or dealer to try it on.
Check Authenticity: Always verify the watch’s authenticity through serial numbers, paperwork, and expert appraisal.
Consider Servicing Costs: Luxury watches require regular maintenance, so factor this into your budget.
Final Thoughts
Buying a luxury watch is a deeply personal experience. It’s not just about telling time—it’s about owning a piece of art, history, and engineering. Whether you’re drawn to the sporty elegance of a Rolex Submariner or the refined sophistication of a Patek Philippe Calatrava, take your time to choose a watch that resonates with you. After all, a luxury watch is more than an accessory; it’s a legacy.
By following this Pursuitist guide, you’ll be well-equipped to make a confident and informed decision. Happy watch hunting!
