Although haute couture was largely controlled by men since its beginning in the 17th century, it has always been regarded as part of the women’s universe—even if men’s fashion during the time had just about the same level of intricacy as women’s. Haute couture has often been in reference to the elaborate court dresses that only master tailors were allowed to produce for noblewomen, while couturières (female designers) could only work on casual dress.
Societal shifts have further segmented fashion terminologies in the present day. Haute couture—while still remaining a male-dominated sector—largely deals with custom pieces for women; the closest male equivalent would be Savile Row’s bespoke tailoring, which, while employing a similar level of custom tailoring, is arguably less labour-intensive and intricate than haute couture.
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At Dior Men, artistic director Kim Jones’ constant deep dives into the house’s couture heritage have culminated in his first collection of couture pieces for men. Shown during the Rudolf Nureyev-inspired Winter 2024 runway show, the haute couture pieces closed as nods to the ballet dancer’s more flamboyant persona. Familiar menswear silhouettes that reflect nuances of movement and sport are handcrafted with embroideries (inspired by archive ball gowns) and employ the use of traditional techniques.
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A silk crepe kimono closed the show. Worn over a romper, it’s one of a few pieces in the collection that was inspired by Nureyev’s collection of vintage textiles and clothing. The particular piece features embroidered tulle ribbons treated in a gradation of hues that seem to endlessly journey throughout the kimono. A silk organza top using the same application is found in a prior look, its sheerness displaying the detailed artistry as the ribbons appear to float and dance around the torso.
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It’s fair to say that while the Winter 2024 collection marks Jones’ first haute couture collection for Dior Men, he’s no stranger to adapting couture techniques in past ready-to-wear collections. It’s difficult not to—Dior’s haute couture heritage runs deep with iconic haute couture creations still being referenced by designers within and beyond the house. And if anyone could make men’s haute couture part of the mainstream, it’s Jones.
This article was first seen on Esquire.Sg
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